Photo feature by Elio Delgado
HAVANA TIMES, Sept. 25 — The Catholic religion and religions of African origin have coexisted since Cuba’s colonial days, the Catholic belief with its saints and writings while those of the black slaves brought from Africa only with language.
In this sanctuary erected for the Virgin of Regla, syncretized with Yemaya, the virgin is included in the largest altar that came from Spain at the end of the 17th century, which is a copy of the one worshipped in the monastery of that same name in Chipiona-Cadiz.
As legend holds, this image belonged to San Agustin, a great African saint of the fifth century who founded an organization of Christians who followed reglas (rules), or a series of norms devised by that same saint. Due to a whole series of circumstances, the image ended up in southern Spain, where it was discovered at the beginning of the 15th century.
With the advance of the Christian kings’ conquest toward the south of Spain, with them were regular canon missionaries of San Agustin. It seems that these were the ones who carried the image of their Regla, which currently is worshipped in Chipiona.
In the 16th century, from Andalusia came colonizers, and with them their devotion to the virgin. To one particular individual who is traditionally identified as Manuel Antonio, or “the Pilgrim,” is owed the origin of the current sanctuary. He built a chapel here and put up the portrait of the Virgin of Regla in 1682.
This chapel was destroyed by a hurricane in 1692, however there appeared another Spaniard, Juan de Conyedo, who was afraid in the face of the furor of a storm while he traveled by sea from Caibarien to Havana. He promised the virgin to build another chapel with stronger materials and a better structure if survived.
He fulfilled the promise and soon after a military officer brought the current image from Madrid, replacing the previous one. The black color of the figure apparently has no type of ethnic motive. It was due simply to the fact that in antiquity devotees liked to represent their images in fine woods, which were usually black-colored ebony.
Since those remote times the Virgin of Regla has been worshipped with great faith by most Havanans simultaneously. They relate her to the world of the sea, following the tradition from Chipiona where the sanctuary is in front of that town’s beautiful beach. That of Regla has a privileged position since it was built facing the Morro Fortress; therefore when ships arrived in Havana, the chapel was the first thing that met their eyes. It was like a sign of protection and the maternal affection with which they were welcomed.
A sign of this affection by Havanans is the fact that its town council solemnly declared the Virgin of Regla as the patron of the port of Havana in 1714. Likewise, in 1957 the figure was crowned in the Cathedral by Cardinal Arteaga1 in an equally solemn ceremony. The current temple, built at the beginning of the 19th century, is visited by pilgrims especially on the days of its festive celebrations: September 8 and the eighth day of every month.2
Upon entering the church I was surprised to see niches in the walls, but they were not the stations of the cross. They held various statues of the saints. When I asked Anna, she told me the little plaques in between were the stations.
The main altar. It is a small, simple, almost rustic church. It has a most serene aura. I could have stayed for hours.
A closer look
There is a newer side altar with a replica statue, built to handle the throngs on special days.
It was interesting to see Anna genuflect and make the sign of the cross at the main altar because she practices Santeria, and is in fact one who initiates newcomers.
Here, Anna is the one in the centre kneeling at the side altar.
Outside the church one can see across the bay to Havana city.
Still today those going out to sea come to this church to pray for a safe journey. Anna said that most who were fleeing Cuba by boat in years gone by came here to pray.
We drive back to the other side and drive along the malecon. As we pass the U.S. Embassy, known as the U.S. Interests Section for the past several decades, we see the American flag flying.
When we passed Anna said something in Spanish. Just by the sound of her voice I knew it was something special for her so I asked Alex what she said. He told me that this was the first time she has seen the American flag in Cuba. Yes, she was born a few years after the revolution. And yes, I was the oldest person in the car.
We continued our drive along the malecon to Miramar, a very upscale neighbourhood. After the revolution the beautiful mansions were turned into embassies and other important places.
We are now heading to Anna's home several kilometres to the west of Havana proper, in Playa Santa Fe.
I invited Anna, Alex, and Jose out for an early dinner. We went to a lovely restaurant and everyone pleased.
As we were driving I noticed off to the left there was an area with no buildings, just vegetation, so I asked why and what was there. They said Fidel lives there. Alex had my camera so I quickly told him to take a photo. He said NO. I insisted and again he said NO. When I asked him why he said that it was forbidden. When I said no one will know he told me there were signs forbidding it and cameras. I ceased.
We stopped a little way down to watch a beautiful sunset.
I was tired and it shows with this photo of Anna and I looking out to the sunset. Look how fresh she still looks, sheesh!
When we got to where they lived I saw it was like a village of small houses. No tall buildings at all. Her house had a main floor of living room, kitchen, two bedrooms, and a bathroom. Alex told me the layout was the same upstairs and that was where he stayed. I thought it would be impolite to take any photos in their home, so I did not.
Two neighbour lady friends of Anna came to visit within minutes of our arrival. Guess they wanted to see this foreigner. Anna made coffee for all of us and served it in beautiful demi tasse china cups and saucers. Alex's younger sister (15) and her boyfriend were also home. After we finished our coffee and the guests left Anna took me into one of the rooms which would have been a bedroom if needed. This room she used for her Santeria altars. Wow and wow. She showed me many things and tried to explain a lot, but time was closing in on us. It was already after 7pm. As we were saying out goodbyes she gave me a finely beaded bracelet of the orisha Orula/St. Francis of Assisi, and placed it on my left wrist.
I told Alex to stay home because it would be crazy for him go all the way back to the city. Jose, who lives not too far from my hotel would drop me there.
The end of a very exceptional day.
